Get some extra strong cleaning solvents. I like having them for barrels and use on the AK piston it gets really dirty. So comment below why you have not bought one? Or tell me you got one! I recently bought a Mosin Nagant that is stamped with the Tula Star and Arrow but it has as the date beneath..
Have you ever seen this or k now anything about them? Did you mean Octagon receiver? Give 7. Honestly that is very cool To get a Matching with Hex made by Izhevsk! Not bad at all. Good times and have some FUN! Oh what year was it made? Mosin are a ton of fun, I enjoyed them when they were cheap and the ammo was cheap.
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Leave this field empty. This process can require three hands, but some gentle persuasion from a wide, blunt-bladed screwdriver helps a lot. Use a brass punch or the corner of a screwdriver handle if you're worried about mars or scratches, and be careful sliding the bands, because they can scrape the finish right off the stock. The bands won't normally fit over the front sight, so they will remain on the barrel after you remove the stock.
With the barrel bands out of the way, the top handguard is easily removed to expose the next sloppy layer of cosmoline. Now remove the two screws from the action, one on the bottom in front of the magazine and one on top on the tang at the back of the action.
With the screws out and safely stowed in the bucket of mineral spirits, the barreled Mosin-Nagant action should lift out of the stock, and the trigger guard and magazine can be removed and tossed in the solvent.
Before you do anything else, look at the trigger and locate its pivot pin. This pin is probably only being held in with cosmoline, so you should go ahead and knock it out before it falls out and gets lost. Toss it in the bucket. The trigger will remain trapped by the sear spring. Wipe down the barrel and action to get the bulk of the cosmoline off, and run a solvent-soaked patch down the bore. Wipe down the stock and set it somewhere in the sunshine to warm it up a bit while you focus on the steel parts.
The warmth will help soften the cosmoline and leach it out of the wood. Give it a good wipe-down every now and then throughout the day and you'll get more cosmoline out each time. Looking at the bottom of the action again, remove the screw holding the sear spring and trigger.
You'll see that the sear spring actually becomes the sear, and serves as the trigger return spring as well. The top of the trigger rides between the sear spring and the action.
Pay attention to how the trigger and sear spring come apart. It's easy to put it all back together, but it's easier if you watch how it comes apart. Once removed, drop these small pieces into the bowl of solvent with the bolt to be dealt with later. Throw it all in the solvent. Right now we want to focus on cleaning the stripped barreled action. It's helpful to have a bucket big enough to submerge the whole Mosin-Nagant action into, but that's not critical.
You just want to have a way to keep your work good and wet with fresh solvent while you scrub and swab it. If you really want to soak it, a capped length of 2-inch PVC pipe works well, and doesn't require gallons of solvent. The cosmoline can be pretty resistant to cleaning, especially if the Mosin-Nagant has been fired with cosmoline still in it. Start with the outside, then the bore, then the chamber.
Swab out the barrel several times with a good-and-wet. Use a nylon toothbrush and plenty of solvent to scrub the Mosin-Nagant action, then wet a 20 gauge bore brush and scrub up into the chamber. Follow that with a. Chucking the brush and swab up in a cordless drill can speed the process up, but don't get carried away. Once you have the chamber good and clean, wipe down the whole thing one more time and run another patch or two through the bore, then give everything a good wipe down with your light oil and set it aside.
A toothbrush and your solvent will make quick work of the trigger and sear. Just give them a good scrubbing, wipe them off, and coat them with light oil. Set these aside for closer inspection in a few minutes. I use a metal tin sitting on an old radio speaker magnet to keep track of my small parts. Now shift your attention to the bolt. You need to separate these parts to get everything good and clean. As removed from the gun, the bolt is cocked, so the first order of business is to de-cock it.
Begin by grasping the bolt handle in your right hand as if it were the grip of a pistol with your index finger laying against the side of the bolt. Grasp the knurled cocking knob, pulling back slightly as you rotate the knob counterclockwise and let the spring tension pull it forward. Now the head at the front of the bolt can be pulled forward about a quarter inch and rotated counterclockwise.
At this point the head and the guide can slide forward and separate from the assembly, exposing a good bit of the firing pin. Final disassembly of the Mosin-Nagant bolt involves unscrewing the firing pin from the cocking knob. As you look at this knob, you will see what looks like a recessed standard head screw in the center of the knob. This is actually the back end of the firing pin which is threaded and screwed into the knob.
The firing pin protrusion — how far the point extends beyond the bolt face when fired — can be adjusted by screwing the firing pin in or out of this knob. The slotted head of the firing pin should be ground flush with the face of the knob and there should be witness marks scratched into the knob face in line with the screw slot to indicate where the protrusion depth was set by the last armorer to inspect the gun.
While you can use a small wrench or a Mosin-Nagant bolt tool to unscrew the firing pin, the easier way to disassemble this part of the bolt is to again grasp the bolt handle like a pistol, but this time press the front of the firing pin into a piece of wood on your bench, compressing the striker spring to the point that the whole tail assembly can be turned counterclockwise.
If the knob doesn't readily unscrew from the firing pin, use a wrench or bolt tool on the flat sides of the firing pin to unscrew it a turn or two to break the threads loose, then try again using the pistol grip technique. The tail assembly should screw right off.
Remove the firing pin and the striker spring and finish cleaning the bolt components, then give them a light coat of oil. Finish up cleaning any of the small parts still in your bucket. Be sure to get inside the magazine well and clean the spring and follower. Pressing the button on the bottom of the magazine lets the spring and follower swing out, then by squeezing the follower down against the magazine baseplate, you can slide that whole assembly off of its pivot pin.
That completes the metal parts, unless you want to remove the barrel band retainer clips, sling slot guards — or in some cases swivels, recoil lug and butt plate from the stock. Unless it's cracked or you're planning to refinish it, this isn't really necessary.
The stock will clean up just fine with all of that still in place. Most solvents won't touch the standard Mosin-Nagant shellac finish, but if you're concerned about it and want to maintain the gun's original finish, it's a good idea to do some testing in an inconspicuous spot like the interior of the handguards or the areas around the sling slots.
Once you're satisfied that your solvent of choice isn't going to harm the finish, go ahead and apply it liberally to melt and draw out the cosmoline and years of oil and grease that have soaked into the wood. There's normally no harm in completely soaking the wood in mineral spirits or similar solvents. If you're planning to glass bed the action or do any repairs using resins like Brownells Acraglass, you want to get the contact surfaces as clean and oil free as possible so the resins or glues have a good surface to bond with.
Calcium carbonate, the same stuff antacids are made from, can help to draw out oils. Brownells sells it in a form called "whiting" specifically for this purpose, and plain old baking soda works pretty well too.
No matter what you use or how much time and effort you put into it, you're probably never going to get all of the oil and cosmoline out of the wood. It's not a huge problem, but the more you get out, the less it will sweat when it gets warm.
If you're not interested in maintaining original appearance, you can refinish the original stock or you can pick up an aftermarket synthetic stock, such as the futuristic Archangel tactical stock or the classic look of ATI's Monte Carlo. There are also add-ons for the guns such as a polymer pistol grip or a rubber butt pad that will increase the length of pull. If you're keeping the wood stock, and you're not planning to use any glue or resin, a light coat of wood conditioner — even just furniture polish — is a good idea.
Reassembly is just the reverse of the disassembly process. Once you've got it all back together, make sure everything has a light coat of oil, and you're almost ready to go shooting. Before you do though, be sure you've verified headspace and run it through a few dry cycles to function check it. Never use live ammo for function checking.
Make yourself some dummies if you think you really need them, or just wait and test feeding and extraction when you've got it safely on the bench at the range. Most good gun shops will gladly check headspace and give your Mosin-Nagant a quick safety inspection at no charge, but good manners dictate that you at least buy a box of ammo or some targets from those nice folks.
Now get out to the range and put it on paper. If it groups nicely and you're happy, that's all you need to do. Be sure and save your best targets though. You'll want to compare them with the targets you shoot after you make any improvements. Also, be sure you clean the Mosin-Nagant well after shooting, especially if you're using surplus ammo. A lot of that stuff is highly corrosive and will destroy your rifle in short order if you don't get it cleaned out.
Windex or another cleaner with ammonia does a great job of neutralizing the caustic chemicals, and of course that needs to be followed with your regular bore solvent and a good gun oil. That's it for now. Until next time, shoot safe and invite your non-shooting friends to go out with you. Guns are an addiction worth sharing.
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